A Pilgrim’s Progress

Issue 04, 2019

A Pilgrim’s Progress

Rachel Hunter |author

Issue 04, 2019

Supermodel Rachel Hunter is in love with India, a country that has helped her connect with the inner being. She takes us on a guided trip of her two most favourite spiritual destinations, Varanasi and Rishikesh

It was back in 2015 when I was filming the television series Rachel Hunter’s Tour of Beauty, that I landed in New Delhi late one night. As I walked outside the airport, my mind was filled with excitement; I couldn’t wait to explore the unknown but yet, it seemed so known. I went to stay in one of the nearby hotels and the next morning I flew to Varanasi. While my choice surprised many, in hindsight I realised, it was the best decision I could have ever made. It is an incredibly intense, magical and transformational city. One of the oldest and holiest cities in the world, it is said Lord Shiva resides here. Some may find Varanasi’s vibrant culture a little overwhelming at first but one needs to be patient to understand this old city. One has to wait for the living heritage of Varanasi to unravel itself, one intoxicating layer at a time.

Varanasi, with a divine and devoted warmth, is of great spiritual importance, drawing the faithful from across the world. I too had come in search of faith; to replenish my soul and to discover a way of life that was opposite to what the western world follows. My first morning in Varanasi started with the sound of chants from a nearby temple. The sky was still dark outside my hotel room, but it seemed the city was already waking up, getting ready for the daily chores of the Lord. As I walked along the bank of the River Ganges, one of the holiest rivers in India, I realised it was not just the spectacular sunrise that made the morning special. It were the people and the pious atmosphere of the city that made the experience so special.

Sunrise over the Holy River Ganges in Varanasi

As the sun rose over the Ganges, blazing red, silhouetting the bobbing boats, the city invoked the early rituals of bathing and honouring the gods and goddess with prayers. The air was filled with people praying, temple chants and the ringing of bells in temples, which a priest explained, was done to wake up the gods. As the city came to life, the river too did. Devotees offered prayers to the river and the Sun god, children dived into the water making loud and gleeful splashes, yoga enthusiasts practiced asanas on the steps along the bank, while boatsmen readied their boats for mesmeric early morning rides. As I sat in a boat, its hypnotic sway played on my senses, and the city of Varanasi seemed to be rising from the river, like a vision and a dream. Later in the day, I chanced upon another ghat, Manikarnika, where cremations of the dead take place according to Hindu rituals. I observed loved ones honouring those who had passed away and seek salvation. It was as if life completes its cycle in this city. Eventually, exploration of Varanasi took me to the Sankat Mochan temple, dedicated to Lord Hanumana. This quaint temple, tucked into a quiet bylane, is unique in its simplicity. With the glorious Hamumana Chalisa (prayers) being chanted and monkeys, favourites of the God, roaming freely throughout the compound, it’s fascinating to just sit on the floor and watch people passing through.

A traditional shop showcasing musical instruments in Varanasi

In varanasi, one has to discover the city to feel its devotion. I remember one night, on my return to Varanasi last year, I sat at the foot of the steps of the Vishwanath Temple listening to the chanting. As I sat there, the rhythm chant resonated deep within, I felt I had been reborn! Varanasi gives birth to a new way of thinking, allowing you to open your inner wonder, makes you see life as if through the eyes of a curious child. Breathe in and breathe out to let the magic begin.


Lord Vishwanath templeThe main Shiva temple of Varanasi, Lord Vishwanath Mandir, is near the Dwashasamedh Ghat and that is where you can head to, for an experience of the city’s soul.
Morning walksThe alleyways of the temple town are a labyrinth of life; with shopkeepers sweeping empty streets outside their shops, and an abundance of garlands for deities being sold in makeshift stalls.
Shop for SareesA Banarasi (now Varanasi) saree is amongst the finest fabrics produced in India due to the intricate design patterns of gold and/or silver that are woven into the silk.


After Varanasi, it’s Rishikesh, the town of spirituality and yoga in Uttarakhand, tucked into the Himalayas and that’s my favourite in India. The town has the swiftly flowing Ganges and crowds veering towards a magnificent aarti (a ritual of lamps held by the river banks) every evening. While in Varanasi, the Ganges is a magnificent sight: powerful yet calm, in Rishikesh, it hurtles down the mountain. As night falls, it’s transformational to watch the twinkling lamps people float on the river, disappear into the night.

A view of the iconic Ram Jhoola, a wire suspension bridge in Rishikesh

The Kunjapuri Devi Temple is also a magical sight. Hire a tourist guide to experience the magic of the temple overlooking the mountains at sunrise. Chant or just sit silently as you watch the sun rise over the Himalayas. The priest blesses devotees when the temple opens its doors.

The author after the evening aarti on the ghats near Rishikesh

The town is an amalgamation of experiences: the rose-flavoured lassi, spicy street food, the sweet smell of incense, the buzzing conversations and even the cows standing outside shops waiting for a treat. It’s not any one temple where I find solace in this town; this is all a part of a spiritual journey. Not just mine, the great pilgrimage of India has been a fundamental part of many lives, for the ways of simply looking inward, for the human ego to fall away and let one explore life fully. There is a saying: “While the rest of the world travelled externally, India went in”. This is India’s promise to the soul; a promise that is being fulfilled for centuries. Embrace the country and India will always love you.


Yoga in RishikeshThere are several places where one can learn and practice yoga and experience some of the most serene meditation spots, such as the Vashishtha cave, where legends say sage Vashishtha meditated.
Old RishikeshThe old town of Rishikesh is a busy hub of markets, with stalls selling puja supplies. Walking around Rishikesh is magical and it’s every sight will remain etched in your mind.
Ganga Aarti The evening aarti here is my favourite. I have spent sunsets watching the ritual of fire and people make offerings of flowers to the river. It’s transformational to watch the floating lamps people float disappear into the night.

Rachel Hunter

Rachel Hunter is an international supermodel from Auckland, New Zealand, who began her successful career at the age of seventeen. She has just released a best-selling book chronicling her incredible experience while filming her show ‘Rachel Hunters Tour of Beauty’. Rachel has formally studied the ancient practices of yoga in the foothills of the Himalayas.
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